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THE 

LACKAWANNA  LEATHER  CO. 

MANUFACTURERS  OF 

PATENT  ENAMEL  LEATHERS 

HACKETTSTOWN 
NEW  JERSEY 


U.  S.  A. 


' 


CO'N^ 


INTRODUCTION, 

The  purpose  of  this  book  is  to  sketch  swiftly  the  evolution  of  a  green  steer  hide  into 
finished  upholstery  leather  —  to  describe  and  show  the  different  grades  in  their  unfinished  state 
so  that  buyers  for  furniture  houses  may  know  exactly  what  is  underneath  the  finish. 

LEATHER.  —  The  skin  or  hide  of  an  animal, 
or  any  portion  of  such  skin,  when  tanned, 
tawed  or  otherwise  dressed  for  use. — Standard 
Dictionary. 


LEATHER.  —  Cotton  fabric,  gun  cotton  finish. 
Unscrupulous  Salesmen. 


Hides  suitable  for  manufacturing  into  upholstery  leather  are  sold  to  the  tannery  in  a  wet 
green  salted  condition  by  the  pound,  with  eye  holes,  nose,  lips,  ears  and  long  shanks  still  on 
them.  They  are  trimmed  by  the  tanner,  converted  into  leather,  and  sold  when  finished  by  the 
square  foot.  Summer  and  early  fall  kill  of  cattle  produce  the  most  desirable  hide.  Hides  from 
this  period  have  shorter  hair  than  winter  and  early  spring  cattle,  are  more  plump  and  are 
generally  free  from  grub  holes. 

Illustration  No.  1  shows  the  end  of  a  car  of  green  salted  packer  spready  steer  hides  in 
the  condition  they  arrive  at  the  tannery. 

The  spread  of  these  hides  across  the  shoulders  just  back  of  the  brisket  is  sold  to  measure 
six  feet  six  inches  and  over  on  stuck  throat  hides  (Gentile  slaughter)  and  six  feet  eight  inches 
and  over  on  cut  throats  (Kosher  slaughter),  the  cattle  themselves  usually  weighing  1300  pounds 
and  up  on  the  hoof. 


Illustration  No.  2  shows  the  trimmings  which  are  cut  from  the  hides  before  they  are  put 
in  the  first  operation.  These  trimmings  as  formerly  stated  consist  of  eyes,  lips,  nose,  ears,  and 
shanks  below  the  knee  cap.  It  is  possible  to  make  sole  leather  and  harness  leather  from  these 
parts  that  we  have  trimmed  off,  but  high-grade  upholstering  leather  such  as  Lacka-Tan  and 
our  other  grades  of  leather  must  be  closely  trimmed,  and  we  feel  that  the  trade  appreciates  the 
elimination  of  these  narrow  long  shanks,  as  they  not  only  make  poor  upholstering  leather,  but 
cut  to  considerable  waste. 

These  trimmings  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of  glue,  soap  greases,  and  the  residue  used 
as  fertilizer. 


After  the  hides  have  been  trimmed,  the  next  operation  consists  of  placing  them  in  large 
pools  of  clear  water.  The  water  frees  the  hide  from  salt  and  dirt,  and  softens  the  texture. 

Illustration  No.  3  shows  a  spready  hide  opened  with  the  grain  or  hair  side  showing. 

The  Lackawanna  Leather  Company  in  the  production  of  Lacka-Tan  Leather,  Machine 
Buff  Spanish,  Top  Grain  Spanish,  and  Split  Spanish,  uses  nothing  whatever  but  prime  packer 
spready  steer  hides  of  domestic  growth.  Not  only  is  the  leather  made  in  the  U.  S.  A.,  but  the 
cattle  which  produce  the  hides  are  grown  in  the  U.  S.  A. 


Illustration  No.  4  shows  a  spready  steer  hide  opened  with  the  flesh  or  meat  side  showing. 


_ 


Illustration  No.  5  shows  the  next  operation  which  consists  of  removing  the  fat.  This 
fat  when  freed  from  the  hide  is  re-salted  and  shipped  to  manufacturers  who  make  neat’s-foot 
oil  of  it. 


Illustration  No.  6  shows  the  liming  process.  After  the  fat  has  been  taken  from  the  flesh 
side  of  the  hides,  they  are  then  placed  in  a  lime  bath  with  frequent  raisings  and  lowerings  in 
order  to  give  the  lime  solution  a  chance  to  equally  effect  all  parts.  The  action  of  the  lime  is  to 
swell  the  hide  and  to  soften  or  dissolve  the  fatty  hair  roots  so  the  hair  will  slip  out  of  its  cell 
easily.  The  hair  is  not  shaved  off  as  many  suppose.  Time  required  to  lime  a  pack  of  50  hides, 
seven  days. 


Illustration  No.  7  shows  the  unhairing  machine  in  operation.  Part  of  the  hide  as  you  can 
see  has  been  freed  of  the  hair. 

This  hair  by-product  finds  its  way  to  those  who  make  a  specialty  of  the  manufacture  of 
hair  felt,  cushion  filling,  etc. 


The  next  operation  is  that  of  removing  the  loose  fleshy  material  on  the  meat  side  of  the 
hide  as  performed  by  the  machine  seen  in  Illustration  No.  8.  This  loose  fleshy  material  is  not 
suitable  for  making  leather.  The  material  that  comes  off  the  hides  is  known  as  glue  stock  or 
fleshings  and  is  sold  to  glue  factories. 

After  the  fleshing  machine  operation  the  hides  go  through  what  is  known  as  the  bate 
process.  This  consists  of  first;  washing  the  hides  in  considerable  clear  water,  second,  treating 
them  to  a  bath  containing  chemicals  which  have  a  bacterial  action  on  the  hide,  loosening  up 
and  freeing  the  lime  from  the  hide,  third,  the  removal  of  these  bacterial  action  chemicals  with 
large  quantities  of  water. 


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The  appliances  used  for  these  purposes  are  such  as  is  shown  in  Illustration  No.  9.  Time 
required  for  fifty  hides  varies  from  three  to  five  hours  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  hides. 

After  leaving  the  bate  operation  the  hide  is  substantially  in  the  same  condition  as  it 
was  when  received  from  the  butcher,  excepting  it  is  minus  fat,  flesh,  hair  and  dirt,  and  is 
now  ready  to  receive  the  primary  stages  of  tanning. 


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Illustration  No.  10  shows  one  of  the  tanning  vats  with  hides  suspended  on  a  pivoted  frame 
ready  to  receive  first  a  very  mild  tan  liquor  in  point  of  tanning  strength,  and  each  day  the 
tanning  strength  of  this  liquor  is  increased  until  on  the  eighth  day  we  have  no  longer  a  green 
hide,  but  —  leather.  This  leather,  is  not  thoroughly  tanned  through  and  through,  but  is 
sufficiently  advanced  in  the  tanning  process  to  allow  it  to  be  put  in  condition  for  the  splitting 
machine.  The  pivoted  frames  upon  which  the  hides,  fifty  in  all,  are  hung  are  always  in  motion 
agitating  the  hides  and  the  liquor,  resulting  in  quicker  tan  liquor  penetration  than  if  the  hides 
hung  stationary.  This  style  of  tanning  vat  is  known  as  a  rocker. 


Illustration  No.  11  shows  a  series  of  rocker  vats  each  containing  fifty  hides  completely 
submerged  in  tan  liquor. 


When  the  leather  is  taken  from  the  rocker  vats  it  is  necessarily  very  wet,  in  fact  dripping 
wet,  and  must  have  a  certain  portion  of  this  water  taken  from  it  before  it  can  be  split.  To 
accomplish  this  and  without  the  necessity  of  putting  the  leather  out  on  a  clothesline,  a  wring¬ 
ing  machine  is  used.  See  Illustration  No.  12.  This  machine  accomplishes  the  work  more  by 
absorption  of  the  heavy  felt  rolls  than  it  does  by  pressure. 


When  the  leather  has  passed  through  the  wringing  machine,  the  next  operation  is  that 
known  as  stoning.  Illustration  No.  13  shows  this  machine  in  operation.  It  irons  or  stones  out 
the  wrinkles,  flattens  the  leather,  and  is  the  final  preparation  for  splitting. 


Illustration  No.  14  shows  the  intake  side  of  splitting  machines  with  piles  of  leather  on 
platforms  and  horses,  ready  to  pass  through  the  machines. 


Illustration  No.  15  shows  the  vital  parts  of  a  band  or  belt  knife  splitting  machine.  “A” 
endless  belt  knife,  flexible  steel  three  inches  wide,  1/32  inch  thick,  traveling  at  a  speed  of  475 
feet  per  minute,  kept  sharp  by  the  edge  passing  between  two  emery  wheels  continuously  grind¬ 
ing.  “B,”  steel  shaft  two  inches  in  diameter  and  106  inches  long,  styled  gauge  roll.  The  distance 
from  the  bottom  of  the  gauge  roll  to  the  edge  of  the  knife  is  the  thickness  the  leather  will 
be  split.  “C,”  ring  rolls  two  inches  in  diameter  with  one-inch  face,  of  which  there  are  one 
hundred  and  six  resting  on  “D”,  a  six-inch  rubber  roll  one  hundred  and  six  inches  long.  The 
duties  of  “C”  and  “D”  are  to  hold  uniform  tension  on  the  leather  against  “B,”  and  due  to  their 
flexibility,  they  act  quickly  on  the  uneven  parts  of  the  hide,  the  rings  sink  into  the  rubber  roll 
at  heavy  parts  and  are  forced  up  themselves  by  the  rubber  roll  at  light  parts  of  the  hide. 


Illustration  No.  16  shows  the  exhaust  side  of  a  Splitting  machine  with  a  Machine  Buffed 
hide,  which  has  previously  had  the  Buffing  taken  from  it,  coming  out  on  the  top  or  above  the 
knife;  while  underneath  the  knife  hanging  to  the  floor  is  the  balance  of  the  steer  hide,  still  in 
one  piece,  yet  containing  a  main  split,  a  second  Split,  and  the  Leveler  Split.  It  will  be  necessary 
to  pass  this  part  of  the  hide  through  the  machine  twice  before  the  operation  of  splitting  is 
complete. 

To  the  layman  mind,  the  splitting  of  the  leather  is  probably  one  of  the  most  interesting 
features  of  the  leather  business.  To  the  tanner’s  mind  it  is  one  of  the  most  sensitive.  Thousands 
of  dollars’  worth  of  damages  can  be  done  in  the  splitting  machine  in  a  very  few  minutes.  Not 
only  can  a  poor  adjustment  of  the  machine  produce  the  leather  irregular  and  poorly  split,  but 
there  are  other  causes  over  which  the  tanner  or  the  belt-knife  operator  has  absolutely  no  con¬ 
trol,  which  go  to  make  No.  2  or  damaged  leather  at  the  splitting  machines.  One  of  these  is 
lead  shot  which  the  animal  may  have  received  from  trespassing  on  someone’s  property,  not 
easily  distinguished  because  it  is  part  of  the  way  in  the  hide  and  the  sore  has  healed  up.  If  the 
keen  edge  of  the  knife  strikes  this  shot  dead  center,  the  damage  effect  is  very  slight,  whereas  if 
the  knife  happens  to  strike  the  shot  on  the  slant,  the  edge  being  very  keen,  long,  and  flexible, 
will  either  be  turned  up  or  down.  The  gap  in  the  knife  is  liable  to  cut  either  the  Buffing  or  the 
Machine  Buffed  hide  in  two  parts  from  belly  to  belly.  Thorns  will  cause  this  same  damage. 
In  the  buffing  operation,  due  to  the  fact  that  the  buffing  is  so  extremely  light,  the  slightest 
traces  of  grit  on  the  grain  side  will  cause  damages  to  the  buffing  by  cutting  it  in  two,  and  the 
Machine  Buffed  hide  itself  may  suffer  from  scratches. 

Leather  can  be  split  any  way  you  desire  it.  You  have  a  certain  thickness  of  hide  and 
you  can  make  2  -  4  or  24  parts  as  you  like.  The  questions  that  always  come  up  are,  first,  are 
they  salable,  and  second,  will  these  different  parts  have  sufficient  strength  when  you  take  an 
excess  number  of  pieces  from  one  hide.  A  prominent  manufacturer  of  leather  substitutes  some 
time  ago  inserted  an  advertisement  in  various  magazines  calling  on  the  public  to  answer  this 
question,  “How  many  hides  has  a  cow?”  The  writer  of  the  ad  freely  admitted  that  it  was  a 
foolish  question,  and  so  far  we  have  found  no  one  tp  contradict  him.  The  question  is  very 
much  like  the  old  nursery  conundrum,  “How  many  cows’  tails  to  reach  the  moon.”  If  we  were 
extremely  anxious  to  rip  up  some  money,  we  could  probably  put  a  steer  hide  through  the 
splitting  machine  fifty  times  and  then  some,  and  get  fifty  as  thin  as  tissue  paper  sheets  of 
leather.  Of  course  they  would  have  value  only  in  answering  the  “foolish  question.” 


Splits  when  put  through  a  splitting  machine  at  the  proper  substance  are  strong  and 
pliable  enough  for  the  purposes  they  are  intended,  and  that  is  for  plain  work  on  medium-priced 
goods,  flat  seats  for  dining  chairs,  slip  seats,  or  linings.  This  company  does  not  guarantee  splits 
for  tufting  purposes,  any  grade  that  it  makes.  The  split  leather  with  linseed  oil  finish  will  look 
well  and  wear  well  for  the  purposes  manufactured,  and  continue  to  look  like  leather,  real 
leather,  long  after  coated  fabric  substitutes  have  shown  signs  of  distress  by  exposing  the  weave 
in  the  cloth.  A  few  years  ago  some  of  the  manufacturers  of  upholstery  leather  used  soluble  gun 
cotton,  commonly  called  dope  finish,  on  their  splits.  This  highly  inflammable  material  was  not 
satisfactory.  It  had  no  wearing  qualities  as  compared  with  linseed  oil,  and  those  who  used  this 
dope-finished  leather  had  considerable  trouble  with  it.  It  might  be  safely  said  to-day  that  all 
patent  and  enameled  leather  manufacturers  of  upholstery  leathers  are  using  linseed  oil  and  that 
dope  finishes  have  been  confined  to  the  fabric  imitations  of  leather. 

Attached  to  the  cover  of  this  book  we  have  placed  miniature  russet  hides  of  leather  in  the 
different  grades  in  the  rotation  they  come  from  the  steer  hide.  The  first  is  the  Buffing,  an 
extremely  thin  piece  of  leather,  suitable  only  when  stained  or  dyed  for  pocket  books,  jewelry 
and  camera  case  coverings,  and  book  bindings.  The  second  is  the  most  valuable  and  best 
product,  the  Machine  Buff  hide ;  third  the  main  Split ;  fourth,  what  is  known  as  the  second  Split 
or  extra  Split,  and  then  follows  the  Leveller  Split  commonly  called  a  Slab,  which  is  the  uneven 
part  of  the  steer  hide,  and  is  not  used  for  furniture  leathers,  but  usually  for  inner  soles  for 
shoes,  horse  collars,  and  frequently  in  the  manufacture  of  uppers  for  a  very  low  grade  of  brogan 
boots  and  shoes.  This  Slab  or  Leveller  Split  varies  in  substance,  from  the  thickness  of  tissue 
paper  out  in  the  flanks,  bellies  and  shoulders,  to  as  thick  as  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  the  Butts 
and  the  tip  of  the  head. 

After  leaving  the  splitting  machine  the  different  parts  are  now  ready  for  the  next  operation 
which  is  called  re-tanning,  and  it  is  really  finishing  out  the  stage  of  tanning  commenced  by  the 
rocker  vats.  As  the  hide  is  split  into  thin  sheets,  it  necessarily  follows  that  quicker  results  wifi  be 
obtained  in  finishing  the  tanning  process.  To  accomplish  this  re-tanning,  the  Splits  and  Machine 
Buffed  hides  are  placed  in  what  is  known  as  paddle  wheels  containing  tan  liquor.  The  wheels, 
when  in  operation,  compel  the  hides  to  float  continuously 

Illustration  17  shows  sectional  view  of  retanning  room 


After  the  re-tanning  process,  all  the  product  with  the  exception  of  the  Buffing  and  the  Slab 
are  turned  over  to  the  scouring  and  sumacing  process.  Scouring  consists  of  rinsing  the  different 
parts  of  the  hide  in  water  and  then  passing  them  through  a  scouring  machine  that  frees  the 
pieces  of  leather  from  the  surface  tanning.  See  Illustration  18. 


i  wjm 

The  second  operation  in  this  process  is  to  submit  the  different  parts  to  a  sumac  bath. 
Sumac  is  the  leaf  from  the  sumac  tree  ground  to  a  powder  boiled  and  something  like  a 
tea  drawn  from  it.  The  different  parts  get  the  sumac  process  from  two  to  three  days.  This 
has  an  action  on  the  leather  of  bleaching  it,  brightening  its  color,  and  as  there  is  considerable 
tannin  in  the  sumac  of  a  very  soft  nature,  it  helps  to  add  pliability  to  the  leather.  Sumacing 
is  done  in  boxes  (see  Illustration  No.  19),  and  also  in  paddle  wheels. 


The  next  process  is  that  of  lubricating  the  leather,  known  as  stuffing.  The  different 
parts  receive  a  coating  of  cod  oil  and  other  greases  which  also  have  quite  a  lot  of  bearing  on  the 
pliability  and  strength  of  the  leather.  Illustration  No.  20  shows  the  stuffing  process  as  done 
by  hand.  The  surface  water  is  squeezed  out  of  the  hide  with  a  steel  slicker  and  the  greases 
are  applied  to  the  flesh  side  on  M.B.  and  Splits,  and  to  both  sides  in  the  case  of  Top  Grains. 


■I 


Following  up  the  process,  the  leather  then  goes  to  what  is  known  as  the  wet  tacking 
frames  as  shown  in  Illustration  No.  21.  After  it  has  been  tacked  on  the  frame,  the  table  which 
supports  the  frame  is  made  to  expand,  this  drives  the  frame  to  all  four  points  and  is  then  bolted 
tight,  stood  on  edge  and  allowed  to  dry. 


From  the  drying  lofts  the  leather  passes  to  the  softening  process.  Two  machines  ; 
used  by  this  company  for  this  purpose.  (Illustration  22  and  Illustration  23).  The  leather 
then  ready  for  enamelling  and  is  now  styled  “in  the  russet.” 


In  addition  to  the  russet  leather  samples  attached  to  cover  of  the  book  illustrating  the 
cuts  as  they  are  made  from  Machine  Buff  Leather,  we  have  also  inserted  miniature  hides  of 
russet  leather  in  Full  Top  Grain,  Deep  Buff,  Special  Machine  Buff,  etc.  These  are  worthy  of 
your  close  inspection. 

Deep  Buff  is  probably  the  most  abused  name  of  all  the  upholstering  leathers.  Accord¬ 
ing  to  some,  any  Split  may  with  impunity  be  called  a  Deep  Buff.  To  produce  the  “simon  pure” 
article  the  Deep  Buff  cut  must  be  nearer  the  hair  side  than  Splits  are,  the  accepted  rule  being 
that  underneath  a  Tipping  Grain  (patent  leather  for  ladies’  shoe  tips)  the  only  true  Deep  Buff 
is  produced. 


Illustration  No.  24  shows  a  section  of  our  russet  leather  room.  The  M.  B.  hides  and  splits 
are  all  here  ready  for  enamelling  and  are  sorted  up  into  the  various  grades  which  we  anticipate 
they  will  produce  when  finished. 


The  next  process  is  that  of  enamelling.  Illustration  No.  25  shows  a  hide  tacked  on  a 
Japan  shop  frame,  where  it  will  remain  until  it  has  had  its  several  coats  of  linseed  oil,  varying 
from  six  to  eight  according  to  the  nature  of  the  leather  and  the  covering  qualities  of  the 
colors  used.  In  the  manufacture  of  Lacka-Tan  leather  and  all  other  grades  of  leather  made  by 
this  company  we  use  absolutely  nothing  but  linseed  oil  and  pigments,  no  dopes,  pyroxolines,  gun 
cottons,  or  any  highly  inflammable  finishes  of  this  description.  Aniline  dye,  frequently  used  for 
staining  leather,  is  not  used  by  us  in  any  part  of  the  process. 


The  boiling  of  linseed  oil  is  a  slow  and  tedious  proposition.  The  various  coats  are  boiled 
to  different  consistencies,  the  first  coat  material  being  extremely  thick,  as  thick  as  jelly,  whereas 
in  the  last  coats  the  oil  is  thin  and  has  about  the  consistency  of  molasses.  Illustration  No.  26 
shows  a  kettle  of  linseed  oil  over  a  coke  fire,  where  it  will  be  heated  to  temperatures  as  high  as 
600°  F.  and  held  in  these  temperatures  for  from  three  to  seven  hours  according  to  the  consist¬ 
ency  desired.  In  the  boiling  of  linseed  oil  for  the  priming  coats,  it  is  necessary  to  pour  naphtha 
over  this  kettle  of  material  at  a  very  high  temperature. 


27 


Illustration  No.  27  shows  the  kettle  with  the  heavy  gases  coming  off  just  after  pouring 
50  gallons  of  naphtha  on  top  of  100  gallons  of  boiling  linseed  oil  at  a  temperature  running 
between  375°  and  385°  F. 


Having  described  the  materials  that  are  used  and  how  they  are  made,  we  now  go  to  the 
enamelling  process.  Illustration  No.  28  shows  a  yard  full  of  leather  which  has  had  the  first 
or  prime  coat.  The  first  coat  is  dried  outside.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  sun,  a  good  dry  windy 
day  will  accomplish  the  oxidizing  of  the  priming  coat  out  of  doors  in  from  three  to  five  hours. 


Illustration  No.  29  shows  one  of  our  Japan  shop  rooms.  The  first  four  coats  are  applied 
with  a  steel  slicker.  The  team  in  the  foreground  is  applying  the  second  coat  of  material.  An 
abundance  of  this  second  coat  material  is  put  on  the  hide  and  rubbed  over  it  with  the  back  of 
the  slicker,  and  then  taken  off  as  clean  as  possible,  the  coat  itself  not  equalling  the  thickness 
of  tissue  paper.  In  the  background  may  be  seen  teams  applying  the  brush  coats. 


Then  follow  the  balance  of  the  coats  which  are  all  applied  in-doors  and  require  one  night 
in  the  ovens  (Illustration  30)  to  dry,  each  coat. 


i 

After  the  enamelling  process,  all  Spanish  grades,  with  the  exception  of  the  Lacka-Tan 
grade,  go  to  the  embossing  machines  (Illustration  31),  where  they  have  the  impression  applied 
to  them  that  gives  the  various  Spanish  impression  effects. 


From  the  embossing  machines  the  leather  goes  to  the  Spanish  black  coat  room.  Illustra¬ 
tion  32  shows  the  employees  in  the  act  of  applying  the  black  coat,  which  is  first  applied  and  then 
rubbed  off  the  high  spots.  The  leather  is  then  dried  and  is  ready  for  a  soft  graining  operation, 
which  is  done  with  a  cork  armboard. 


33 


1  >* 


Illustration  No.  33  shows  the  men  at  this  work.  The  next  operation  consists  of  cleaning 
the  leather  on  the  finished  side,  and  it  is  then  ready  for  the  measuring  machine. 


Illustration  No.  34  shows  a  hide  going  through  the  machine.  This  machine  with  five 
men  putting  leather  through  and  carrying  away  has  a  capacity  of  something  like  350  hides 
per  hour. 


After  measuring  and  marking,  the  leather  is  rolled  up  and  placed  in  the  bins.  A  section 
of  our  ware-room  may  be  seen  in  Illustration  No.  35. 

LACKA-TAN, 

Lacka-Tan  Leather  differs  from  all  other  grades  we  make  to  the  following  extent— -the 
process  is  the  same  up  to  the  splitting  machines.  At  the  splitting  machine,  after  the  hides  have 
had  the  buffing,  the  light  thin  grain  piece,  taken  from  them,  a  careful  assortment  is  made  for 
those  hides  which  are  best  adapted  for  the  Lacka-Tan  grade.  The  Lacka-Tan  grade  then  is 
split  a  fraction  heavier  than  the  regular  Machine  Buff  leather.  In  the  re-tanning  process  it 
differs  radically  from  all  other  leathers  we  make,  as  it  is  in  the  re-tanning  of  this  leather  that 
we  are  able  to  manipulate  our  tanning  materials  in  such  a  way  that  they  contract  the  grain 
and  bring  out  the  crevices  that  are  found  in  Lacka-Tan  leather.  The  process  from  the  re-tan¬ 
ning  paddles  throughout  the  balance  of  the  factory  is  the  same  as  all  other  grades  of  leather, 
until  you  reach  the  embossing  machines.  Lacka-Tan  leather  is  not  embossed,  but  the  crevices 
originally  shrunk  into  the  grain  by  the  re-tanning  process  are  sufficiently  deep  so  that  when 
the  black  Spanish  rub  is  applied  and  then  rubbed  off,  the  effects  of  these  crevices  are  plainly  seen. 

An  80-pound  steer  hide  that  will  produce  from  57  to  58  feet  of  pebble  grain  or  embossed 
Machine  Buff  Spanish  leather  will  produce  but  52  or  53  feet  of  Lacka-Tan.  The  reason  is  simple 
—  the  shrinking  of  the  grain  in  the  re-tanning  process  loses  this  measurement.  The  Lacka- 
Tan  leather  is  of  course  softer  than  the  embossed  Machine  Buff  for  the  reason  that  it  has  had 
at  no  time  a  pressure  applied  to  it  like  is  necessary  to  bring  out  the  Spanish  effect  on  embossed 
leather. 

Lacka-Tan  leather  is  in  a  class  by  itself.  The  process  being  a  natural  grain,  it  necessarily 
follows  that  each  and  every  hide  will  have  some  little  distinctive  character  that  cannot  be  pro¬ 
duced  by  the  embossing  process.  You  might  take  a  million  square  feet  of  Lacka-Tan  leather 
and  find  no  two  square  feet  exactly  alike,  but  in  the  case  of  the  embossed  grades  of  Spanish 
leather  you  will  find  a  reproduction  as  often  as  it  is  necessary  to  apply  the  impression  per  hide, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  electroplate.  These  vary,  18"  x  24",  22"  x  24",  and  22"  x  40". 


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